Build a Mudroom Bench With Storage: My DIY Plan for Under $150

My entryway looked like a bomb went off in a shoe store. Every morning, I’d trip over sneakers, and the pile of jackets on the floor was basically a second coat rack. I needed a mudroom bench with storage, but store-bought options cost $400 or more. So I built one myself for under $150. Here’s exactly how I did it—and how you can too, even if you’ve never tackled a project this big.

Why I Built This Mudroom Bench (And Why You Should Too)

Our front door opens straight into the living room. There’s no dedicated mudroom, just a narrow wall about 48 inches wide. For months, I used a wobbly shoe rack and a few hooks on a board. It looked messy, and nothing stayed organized. I searched online for “how to build a mudroom bench with storage” and found plans that either cost a fortune in materials or required tools I don’t own. So I designed my own: a simple, sturdy bench with three cubbies for bins, a solid seat, and a row of hooks above. The best part? It cost $147.32, including paint and hardware.

This bench solved my clutter problem in one weekend. Now, bags go into the bins, shoes tuck underneath, and jackets hang on the hooks. The floor stays clear, and the entryway actually looks intentional. If you’re tired of stepping over backpacks and tripping on boots, this project will change your morning routine.

The Complete Materials List for Under $150

I sourced everything from my local home center. Here’s the exact list, with prices I paid in early 2026. Your costs may vary slightly, but this should keep you well under $150.

• 1 sheet of ¾-inch sanded plywood (4x8 ft) — $45. This is the carcass: sides, shelves, and seat support. I used BC-grade plywood; it’s smooth enough to paint and strong enough for sitting.
• 2 pieces of 1x4 common pine boards (8 ft each) — $8 total. These become the face frame and the front lip of the seat.
• 1 piece of 1x12 pine board (6 ft) — $12. This is the seat top. I wanted a wider, solid-wood surface that didn’t sag.
• 1 piece of 1x2 pine board (8 ft) — $3. Used for the cleat that attaches the bench to the wall.
• Wood glue — $5. Titebond II works great.
• 1½-inch pocket-hole screws — $8 for a box of 100. I used a Kreg jig, but you can also use butt joints and screws.
• 1¼-inch finish nails — $4.
• Wood filler — $4.
• Paint or primer + paint — $25. I used a quart of semi-gloss latex in white. One coat of primer, one coat of paint.
• 3 wire baskets (12x12x10 inches) — $18 from a discount store. You can also use plastic bins or fabric cubes.
• 4 heavy-duty coat hooks — $12 for a pack of 4.
• L-brackets and screws for wall anchoring — $6.

Total: $147.32. I already had a circular saw, drill, pocket-hole jig, clamps, and sandpaper. If you need to buy a cheap circular saw, add $40, but you can borrow one or ask the home center to cut the plywood for you.

Step-by-Step: Building the Bench Frame and Storage Cubby

I’ll walk you through my process. I built a bench that’s 48 inches wide, 18 inches deep, and 18 inches tall—perfect for standard bins and comfortable sitting. Each cubby is 15 inches wide, 15 inches deep, and 14 inches tall.

Step 1: Cut the Plywood

I had the home center rip the 4x8 plywood sheet into these pieces (you can do this with a circular saw and a straightedge):

• 2 sides: 18 inches wide x 18 inches tall
• 2 vertical dividers: 15 inches wide x 18 inches tall
• 3 shelves (bottom and two middle): 15 inches wide x 18 inches deep
• 1 back panel (optional, but I added it for stability): 48 inches wide x 18 inches tall

I sanded all edges with 120-grit paper to avoid splinters.

Step 2: Assemble the Carcass

I laid the sides flat on my garage floor. I marked where the shelves would go: the bottom shelf sits flush with the bottom edge, and the middle shelves sit 4 inches above it (leaving a 14-inch tall cubby opening). I used wood glue and 1½-inch screws to attach the shelves to the sides. Then I added the two vertical dividers between the shelves, spacing them evenly (about 15 inches apart). I clamped everything square and checked with a carpenter’s square.

With the carcass assembled, I attached the back panel using glue and 1¼-inch finish nails. This made the frame rock-solid. If you’re mounting the bench into a corner, you can skip the back panel and use L-brackets to the wall instead.

Step 3: Build the Face Frame

The face frame hides the raw plywood edges and gives the bench a finished look. I cut the 1x4 pine boards to fit: two vertical pieces for the outer edges and two horizontal pieces (top and bottom). I attached them with wood glue and finish nails, flush with the front of the carcass. I used wood filler on all nail holes.

Honestly, the face frame was the most satisfying part—it transformed the bench from “workshop project” to “furniture.”

Adding the Seat, Hooks, and Finishing Touches

With the frame done, I moved to the seat and hardware.

Step 4: Install the Seat

I cut the 1x12 pine board to 48 inches long. I also cut a 1x4 cleat (a support strip) and screwed it to the back of the carcass at the top edge. Then I placed the seat board on top, overhanging by 1 inch on the front and sides. I secured it from underneath with screws driven up through the cleat and the sides. No visible fasteners on top.

I sanded the seat edges round with 150-grit paper and applied two coats of polyurethane for durability. You can paint it instead, but I wanted a natural wood tone that contrasts with the painted base.

Step 5: Paint the Base

I primed the entire carcass (including the back panel) with a latex primer, then painted two coats of semi-gloss white. I used a foam roller for the large panels and a brush for corners. Drying time between coats was about two hours. The paint job made the bench look like a $400 piece from a catalog.

Step 6: Add Hooks and Baskets

I mounted a 1x4 pine board above the bench (48 inches long) as a hook rail. I painted it the same white. Then I screwed four heavy-duty hooks into the rail at equal spacing—about 12 inches apart. I made sure the rail was anchored into wall studs (use a stud finder).

Finally, I dropped in the wire baskets. They slide in and out easily, and each holds two pairs of shoes or a backpack. The baskets keep the clutter hidden but accessible.

When I first sat on the bench, I was nervous it would wobble. It didn’t. The combination of the back panel, face frame, and wall anchoring made it feel like it was part of the house.

Customizing Your Bench: Size, Storage, and Style Options

Your space might be wider or narrower than mine. Here’s how to adapt the plan.

Longer bench: If your wall is 60 inches wide, add another cubby. Just cut an extra divider and shelf, and extend the top and bottom pieces proportionally. Keep the cubby width at 15 inches so standard bins fit. For a 60-inch bench, you’ll need about 1.5 sheets of plywood, which still keeps the total under $200.

Deeper bench: Standard mudroom benches are 18 inches deep. If you want more storage, go to 20 or 22 inches. Just adjust the shelf and side cuts. Bins come in standard 15-inch and 18-inch depths, so measure your bins first.

Different storage: Instead of wire baskets, you can build drawers. I tried a drawer version first, but the slides and hardware pushed the cost over $150. Baskets are cheaper and easier to swap out. For a more polished look, use fabric cubes or wooden crates. I prefer the wire baskets because they allow airflow for damp shoes.

Style: I painted the base white and left the seat natural. You can stain the whole thing dark walnut for a traditional look, or paint it navy blue for a pop of color. Add a cushion on the seat if you want more comfort—I bought a 48-inch bench cushion for $20 at a home goods store.

One trade-off I learned: a painted seat hides scratches better than stained wood, but it chips over time. If you have kids who jump on the bench, go with a durable polyurethane finish.

This project taught me that you don’t need expensive tools or a workshop to build custom furniture. With a simple plan, a few basic cuts, and a weekend of work, you can build a mudroom bench with storage that costs less than a night out and lasts for years. I’ve had mine for six months now, and it still looks as good as the day I built it. My morning routine is faster, and my floor is finally shoe-free.

Practical takeaway: Measure your space, buy your materials in one trip, and don’t skip the wall anchoring. Build it, paint it, and enjoy a clutter-free entryway every single day.